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Hydroquinone - Why It's The Gold Standard For Skin Lightening
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Sharmani Pillay
Sharmani P. is the owner of an online skincare store that specializes in both Mexoryl sunscreen and anthelios sunscreen from La Roche Posay. 
By Sharmani Pillay
Published on 24 April 2009
 
Hydroquinone is an ingredient incorporated into skin lightening or skin bleaching creams for its ability to lighten patches of hyperpigmented skin.

If you are someone affected by hyperpigmentation as a result of melasma, age spots or freckles, then you may be familiar with hydroquinone. A skin bleaching or skin lightening ingredient, hydroquinone works by inhibiting the action of tyrosinase, an enzyme that is necessary for the production of melanin, responsible for skin coloring. It is considered the gold standard for treating conditions involving hyperpigmentation and its efficacy has been well documented in a large number of clinical studies.

Hydroquinone can be used anywhere on the face or body to help treat dark patches of skin.

How Effective Is Hydroquinone Cream?

Skin lightening is a gradual process. Most individuals will start to see some results four weeks after starting treatment with hydroquinoone, but more complete results take longer - generally 8 to 12 weeks. If no skin lightening effect is seen after using a hydroquinone product after 4 to 6 months, then treatment should be discontinued.

The efficacy of hydroquinone is increased by adhering to the following practices:
- Staying out of the sun
- Wearing protective clothing when outdoors
- Using a broad spectrum UVA/UVB blocking SPF 30 or higher sunscreen when outdoors
- Avoiding the use of sunlamps and tanning salons.

The sun promotes the production of melanin so it is very important to limit exposure to ultraviolet rays. For this reason, many hydroquinone preparations contain sun filtering agents. Even if your hydroquinone preparation contains sun protection, it's not a bad idea to add a broad spectrum UVA and UVB blocking sunscreen as well.

2% or 4%?

You'll find commercially prepared hydroquinone preparations in concentrations ranging from 2 to 4%. Studies have shown that a 4% concentration is more efficacious and certainly delivers faster results than 2%. It is well tolerated by most individuals and available in a range of brands including Lustra, Glyquin XM, Neostrata and Ultraquin.

Higher concentrations are sometimes recommended by dermatologists. If this is the case you will require a prescription and should work with a compounding pharmacy to obtain a correctly prepared formulation.

Ingredients That Can Enhance Hydroquinone's Efficacy

Many hydroquinone formulations incorporate the use of glycolic acid, an alpha hydroxy acid. Glycolic acid is a topical exfoliant and it helps to remove the dead skin cells on the skin's surface. This action delivers 2 benefits. Firstly, it helps to remove existing pigmentation. And secondly, it can help to improve absorption of hydroquinone into the skin.

If your preparation does not include an exfoliant, then one can be added to your skin lightening regimen. A wide range of effective exfoliants are available from brands such as MaMa Lotion, M2 HP Skin Refinish Serum, Neostrata and Reversa. While most individuals can tolerate the combination of glycolic acid and hydroquinone, others may find the combination irritating.

Retinoids, either as prescription only retinoic acid (Retin-A, Renova) or over the counter retinol (Green Cream) have also been used in conjunction with hydroquinone. Retinoids enhance the skin lightening process by increasing cell turnover and improving cell communication. As with glycolic acid, the combination of a retinoid with hydroquinone may be irritating to some skin types.

Vitamin C at concentrations above 5% has skin brightening properties and can be effectively combined with hydroquinone. Products like UltimaSkin Potent C Serum or La Roche Posay Active C may be considered.

Lastly, botanical skin lighteners that contain skin lightening agents derived from plants may also be combined with hydroquinone. Ingredients including Rumex extract, kojic acid, licorice extract and Gigawhite can be found in a range of products.

Hydroquinone Safety

Hydroquinone tends to be well tolerated by most individuals. Minor side effects include mild itching or stinging and reddening of the skin (irritant contact dermatitis). If these do not subside the cream should be stopped. Side effects that warrant stopping the cream and seeking medical advice include severe burning, itching, crusting, or swelling of treated areas (possible allergic contact dermatitis) and any unusual skin discolouration.

Exogenous ochronosis is the most serious adverse effect related to the use of hydroquinone. This disorder involves progressive darkening of the skin to which hydroquinone is applied. Exogenous ochronosis usually occurs in patients with dark skin who have used hydroquinone at high concentrations (i.e. over 4%) over many years. The risk increases if users are not diligent about avoiding the sun or using sunscreen when exposed to sunlight.

Hydroquinone treatments are best used under a physician's guidance. They should not be used during pregnancy or when breastfeeding.